Chalayan's nod to Vionnet's innovation of the bias cut came off as a well rounded, and articulated a modern viewpoint. While other reviews have panned some of his interpretations as 'flat' the overall collection was a strong opener for Chalayan's first for Vionnet.
Chalayan explained "There are so many brands that are old, that are being revived…, it shouldn't be about revisiting the archives". Chalayan's concept and approach felt layered and pragmatic, almost academic, visiting other arena's of influence such as industrial design and architecture.
One can't help but notice the contrast of his first collection with other recent designer's who've been charged with reinvigorating a fashion house. Too much time and energy is waisted on modernizing the past 'hit silhouette's' of designers, often times the design decisions felt as if they had been made by the board and not the designer. It was utterly disappointing and predictable when Raf Simmons revisited the 'New Look' when opening his first collection for Dior.
One can't help but notice the contrast of his first collection with other recent designer's who've been charged with reinvigorating a fashion house. Too much time and energy is waisted on modernizing the past 'hit silhouette's' of designers, often times the design decisions felt as if they had been made by the board and not the designer. It was utterly disappointing and predictable when Raf Simmons revisited the 'New Look' when opening his first collection for Dior.
images via: style.com
Check out a refresher of Raf for Dior below…
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